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| yna@yna.co.kr 2024-11-15 15:25:05
* Editor's Note: According to the Korea Foundation's 2024 report, there are nearly 225 million Hallyu (Korean Wave) fans worldwide. With the advent of the "Digital Silk Road," transcending time and space, we are entering the era of "Hallyu 4.0." To help readers gain a fresh perspective on Korean culture and K-culture, the Yonhap News K-Culture Team has prepared a series of expert columns.
Shin Jong-geun's 'K-Liqueur' Story: Traditional Liquor of Jeju Island
Contributed by Shin Jong-geun, exhibition planner and columnist (author of "Art and Liquor")
Last year, Jeju Island attracted a total of 13.34 million visitors, of which 12.63 million were domestic travelers. Known for its unique charm, Jeju remains an exotic destination even for South Koreans. Its distinct climate, landscapes, dialect, and lifestyle set it apart from the mainland, making it one of the most popular tourist spots in the country.
Historically, Jeju, formerly known as Tamna, Tammora, and Yeongju, operated as an autonomous community. It was incorporated into the centralized government of Korea during the 20th year of King Taejo’s reign in 938, after it surrendered to the Goryeo Dynasty. In 1153, under King Uijong of Goryeo, a central government official was dispatched to Jeju for the first time.
Later, in 1271, during the 11th year of King Wonjong’s reign, the resistance group Sambyeolcho came to Jeju to wage their final stand against Mongolian invaders. Two years later, in a large-scale operation with around 160 warships and over 10,000 troops, Goryeo and Mongol forces joined to suppress Sambyeolcho in Jeju. Following their victory, the Mongols established the Tamna General Administrative Office and turned Jeju into a Mongolian-run horse-breeding ranch, significantly influencing the island’s culture.
Among the cultural influences from Mongolia was the introduction of distillation techniques for making liquor. Jeju’s scarcity of water and poor soil conditions made rice cultivation challenging, so locals primarily grew millet and barley. They used ground millet to make "omegitteok," a traditional rice cake with a hole in the center, which was then fermented to produce "omegisul."
Omegisul, a type of clear rice wine, was traditionally made in limited quantities because millet, though more abundant than rice, was still a valuable grain. Due to its scarcity, omegisul was reserved for special occasions, such as rituals or family celebrations. A variation called "ohapju" was made by adding sesame oil, honey, ginger, and egg yolk to omegisul, often consumed as a medicinal drink.
Today, Jeju's traditional liquors, with their rich history and unique production techniques, continue to offer a glimpse into the island’s distinct cultural heritage.
Jeju Island's traditional distilled liquor, gosorisul, can be thought of as a distilled version of omegisul, but historically, omegisul was too valuable to distill due to its rarity. Instead, gosorisul was usually made from barley or sweet potatoes. The term gosori refers to the traditional soju distillation apparatus in the Jeju dialect, and any liquor distilled using this apparatus was called gosorisul, regardless of its ingredients.
In Korea's northern and mountainous regions, millet-based soju was also historically brewed. While production has mostly ceased, regions like Haenam in South Jeolla Province once produced jopsal soju, a millet-based soju made with a special fermentation starter called sojugok.
Today, Jeju’s gosorisul is often made by distilling omegisul. Jeju has two main producers of this traditional spirit, preserving and continuing the legacy of gosorisul.
The first is Jeju Sulyineun Jip, located in Seongeup. It was founded by Kim Eul-jeong, a master distiller who learned the craft from her mother-in-law, Lee Seong-hwa, who lived from 1888 to the age of 102.
In 1990, Kim was designated as the official preserver of the omegisul brewing technique (Jeju Intangible Cultural Asset No. 3) and, in 1995, as the preserver of gosorisul (Intangible Cultural Asset No. 11).
Kim dedicated over 30 years to preserving Jeju’s traditional liquor-making methods and was recognized as an honorary master in 2017. Following Kim’s passing in 2021, her daughter, Kang Kyung-soon, has continued to preserve omegisul and was designated a Korean Food Master in 2015. The tradition of gosorisul is now carried on by Kim’s daughter-in-law, Kim Hee-sook, who was also recognized as a traditional food master in 2018 for her contributions to preserving this craft.
The second is Jeju Saemju in Aewol, led by Kim Sook-hee. While staying faithful to traditional methods, Kim has adapted her brews to suit modern tastes. Originally, she crafted gosorisul with a 57% millet and 43% rice blend, but now she uses a 10% millet and 90% rice blend. After taking over the brewery in 2005, Kim has revitalized Jeju’s traditional liquors, inspired by her mother’s struggles as a distiller, and now offers various options. For those who find the original 40% gosorisul too strong, she has introduced a 29% version, alongside omegisul (at 13% and 15% ABV) and other liquors featuring Jeju’s local produce.
These include Nimome (11% ABV), made from rice and tangerine peel; Sewoori (45% ABV), made with Halla Mountain ginseng, fleeceflower root, and wolfberry; and Batti (21% ABV), crafted with Jeju tangerines and honey.
Together, Jeju Sulyineun Jip and Jeju Saemju represent both the traditional and modern aspects of Jeju’s liquor culture, each preserving gosorisul and omegisul as symbolic beverages of Jeju while paving the way for future generations.
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