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Shin Jong-geun's 'K-Liqueur' Story: Spoonable Makgeolli, Ihwaju

 

Contributed by Shin Jong-geun, exhibition planner and columnist (author of "Art and Liquor")

 

 

 

"Under the pear blossoms, the moonlight is white and silver streams flow in the late hours of the night. Does the cuckoo bird understand this branch's spring longing? Even tenderness seems like an ailment, keeping me awake."

 

This sijo (a traditional Korean poem) is attributed to Yi Jo-nyeon (1269–1343), a high-ranking official and poet of the Goryeo dynasty. While the poem is often interpreted as a reflection on romantic love, it is also thought to express the poet's longing and loyalty toward his king.

 

The sijo has been passed down through works such as Cheongguyeongeon (Collection of Korean Songs), Gagokwonryu (The Origin of Korean Songs), and Byeongwagagokjip (Byeongwa Anthology of Songs).

 

The "pear blossoms" (ihwa) mentioned in the poem were historically associated with purity, innocence, coldness, and sorrow. In modern times, the flower symbolizes gentle affection, comfort, and solace, all of which evoke simplicity and sincerity.

 

▲ This image of spoonable makgeolli "Ihwaju" is captured from the official website of Sulsaem. (PHOTO NOT FOR SALE) (Yonhap)

 

It is perhaps due to these symbolic meanings that our ancestors in the Goryeo dynasty held a fondness for pear blossoms. During the blooming season of pear blossoms, they brewed a special rice-based liquor called ihwaju (pear blossom wine). However, despite its name, pear blossoms were not actually used in the brewing process.

 

Ihwaju is a thick and creamy liquor, resembling a white porridge. It can be consumed with a spoon or diluted with water for drinking. Historical texts such as Donggukisang-gukjip, Hallimbyeolgok, Gyugonsiui-bang, Yorok, Jubangmun, Yeokjubangmun, Sanrim-gyeongje, Gosasibijip, Imwongyeongjeji, and Yangjubang contain references to ihwaju.

 

The key ingredient in ihwaju is a type of yeast known as ihwagok (pear blossom yeast). Its preparation involves a detailed process:

 

On the first pig day (sanghaeil) of the first lunar month, pre-soaked rice is finely milled into powder.

 

The powdered rice is shaped into egg-sized balls, layered with pine needles in a jar, and stored in a cool spot. Warm conditions can cause spoilage or blue mold to develop.

 

After seven days, the yeast balls are taken out, dried for half a day, and then stored using the same process. After several days, they are dried completely and stored in paper pouches for future use.

 

When the yeast is later used for brewing, its outer shell is removed, and the interior is ground into a fine powder. This yeast can remain usable from the pear blossom season in spring through summer.

 

According to the Sanrim-gyeongje, ihwaju is brewed as follows:

 

"Wash rice thoroughly and grind it into powder. Make rice cakes with holes, boil them, and cool them. Mix the prepared yeast powder evenly into the rice and press the mixture tightly into a jar. In spring, it ferments in seven days; in summer, it takes 21 days, with jars submerged in water to maintain temperature. For a sweeter wine, use one mil of rice and seven doe of yeast powder. For a clearer, stronger liquor, use three to four doe of yeast powder. Do not add raw water to the process."

 

Since ihwaju uses little to no water and relies heavily on rice, it was considered a luxury item, reserved primarily for the royal court and high-ranking officials.

 

Today, various distilleries have revived ihwaju, allowing people to savor this traditional Korean liquor once more. Notable brands include:

 

Guksundang's Ihwaju

Soolsaem's Ihwaju

Yesul Jujo's When the Pear Blossoms Bloom

Yangjugoliga's Ihwaju

Baekjudoga's Ihwaju Cham

Baehaejungdoga's Woo Gokju

These products reinterpret the historic recipe, offering a taste of Korea's traditional brewing heritage.

 

Additionally, there are unique family-brewed variants such as the Andong Kim Clan's Garu Wine and the Munhwa Ryu Clan's Garu Wine. These are crafted using methods passed down within their respective families, resulting in distinct flavors and aromas exclusive to their lineage.

 

China also has its version of ihwaju, which flourished during the Tang and Song dynasties and was especially favored by Song-era literati.

 

Unlike its Korean counterpart, Chinese ihwaju is characterized by its shorter fermentation period, lighter and more refreshing qualities, and lower alcohol content. Made from glutinous rice and yeast, some regional varieties even incorporate actual pear blossoms or pear juice. Today, similar beverages are produced in Zhejiang and Jiangsu provinces.

 

Ihwaju epitomizes the artistry and dedication of traditional Korean liquor-making. It is more than just a drink; it reflects the culture of refinement and hospitality.

 

Sharing ihwaju with loved ones during year-end celebrations could add a touch of heritage and warmth to the festivities.

[ⓒ K-VIBE. 무단전재-재배포 금지]