BY Jeongbin Park/Joonha Yoo

[ENG] Korean traditional hairpin

 

 

▲This photo, show woman getting her binyeo set. (Yonhap)

 

Binyeo is a Korean word describing the traditional hairpin used back in the days. According to the Encyclopedia of Korean Culture, of The Academy of Korean Studies, binyeo often used to station the hair style, therefore during the historical era, both male and female used binyeo due to its effective usage. For instance, female used binyeo to fix the positioning the wig on top of the set hair to increase the volume and hair style, where as male often times used binyeo, such as okjam, gakjam and more to station various crowns set on top of their set hair. However, as the jjokmeori became a widely used throughout the nation towards the end of Joseon dynasty, binyeo has been characterized as an object used by married woman.

In Korea, binyeo is expected to have been used since the ancient times. Within the excerpt from “The History of Three Kingdom,” King Heungdeok of Silla Dynasty put a regulation on apparels and materials of binyeos used by various social classes. Moreover, silver binyeo from Baekje dynasty was discovered in Buyeo located in South Chungcheong province. These discoveries support the existence and unique usage and designs of binyeo since the historical era.

◇ Various shapes and sizes of binyeo.

▲This photo show various shapes and size of binyeo. (Yonhap)

The usage of binyeo has been generalized throughout the society of Joseon dynasty. As the binyeo became widely known as s fashion item, variation of the object has attracted the increase in customers and as a result led to development of the production system of binyeo. As a result, binyeo is considered to be the representing figure of the art and craftsmanship of the era.

▲This photo, show Jam variation of binyeo. (Yonhap)

 

According to the description disclosed by the National Museum of Korea, binyeo is often times segmented into two various designs, Jam and Chae. One of the designs of binyeo, Jam which includes a decorative piece called Jamdu towards the end of the straight body of binyeo. Whereas Chae has '∩' shaped body with decorative pieces witnessed on Jam.

Creation and style of the binyeo varied based on the material and the decorative pieced used during the production. One of the interesting fact about binyeo is that, depending on which decorative piece is used, to segment the class during the historic era. Often time, binyeos made out of gold, silver, pearl, coral and other expensive materials were used by wealthy social class, whereas those who belonged in lower class used binyeos made out of wood, bones, horns and more.

 

▲This photo, shows a phoenix shaped decorative piece placed on the end of binyeo. (Yonhap)

Moreover, unique designs such as phoenix were used by the, members of the royal family. Since the Phoenix and Dragon King represents the royal family, they were used to decorate the binyeos used by females of the royal family.

The National Palace Museum of Korea selected exhibited object, the list of binyeo used during the wedding ceremony of Emperor Gojong and Empress Myeongseong as the curator’s choice of July, 2022.

The record is a rectangular album comprised of thick red paper folded like an accordion and with its contents written in Hangeul and includeslists of hairpins used for two hairstyles – Keunmeori and jojimmeori. A keunmeori was a style worn by women as part of a grand ceremonial outfit, whereas jojimmeori was least formal hairstyle among those worn in the royal court.

Shapes of the binyeo varied depending on the usage. The binyeo used for daily usage was designed to serve the basic usage of binyeo which was to station the fixed hair therefore it was designed simply. Whereas the ones used for more formal occasions such as marriage was designed with more flamboyant decorations with vivid coloring. On top of various occasions, binyeo’s decorative pieces varied based on seasons, ages and more.

◇ Binyeo became a trendy fashion item.

In recent days, Binyeo is receiving a lot of spotlight as a trendy fashion item . Especially Some of the unique Binyeos with trendy and eye catching design. Some of the trendy binyeos are often times used by various K-pop artists as an it item.

 

▲This photo, show IVE's Jang Won-young. (Yonhap)

For example, K-pop girl group IVE’s Jang Won-young recently participated at an event held by a jewelry brand in Paris wearing binyeo, which attracted a lot of interest. The binyeo worn by Jang Won-young had the modern interpretation of a decorative piece of phoenix often times used by females within the royal family. For the event Jang Won-young is known to have prepared the binyeo herself from South Korea to France. Throughout the behind scene video released by VOGUE, Jang Won-young addressed “I personally brought this binyeo to France in order to show the beauty of Korea,” showcasing her dedication to binyeo.

 

▲This photo, provided by YG Entertainment show photo of Jisoo of BLACKPINK. (PHOTO NOT FOR SALE) (Yonhap)

  

Moreover, K-pop girl group BLACKPINK’s member Jisoo attracted a lot of audiences by wearing dwiggoji a different type of binyeo, throughout her virtual film of the first solo album “Me” released on March 22. dwiggoji is a decorative piece often times placed on the back part of jjokmeori which is a alongside binyeo, where it serves the purpose of decorative piece instead of stationing the hairstyle. Throughout the teaser video, Jisoo of wore a vibrant smaller version of the binyeo with various decorative pieces such as coral, and amber, successfully showcasing the fascinating beauty from old days of Korea.

 

(END)

 

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