* Editor's Note: According to the Korea Foundation's 2024 report, there are nearly 225 million Hallyu (Korean Wave) fans worldwide. With the advent of the "Digital Silk Road," transcending time and space, we are entering the era of "Hallyu 4.0." To help readers gain a fresh perspective on Korean culture and K-culture, the Yonhap News K-Culture Team has prepared a series of expert columns.

 

Shin Jong-geun's 'K-Liqueur' Story: Korean Pride, Ginseng Wine

 

Contributed by Shin Jong-geun, exhibition planner and columnist (author of "Art and Liquor")

 

 

Ginseng derives its name from the root's resemblance to a human figure. While the cultivated variety is commonly known as "insam," wild ginseng is called "sansam."

 

Ginseng was Korea’s original "hallyu" (Korean Wave) product, with trade dating back to the Three Kingdoms period. Records indicate that Goguryeo, Baekje, and Silla all traded ginseng with neighboring countries like China’s Tang Dynasty and Japan. One example involves Choe Chiwon, a government official from Silla who gifted ginseng to his Tang superior.

 

During the Goryeo Dynasty, methods were developed to steam ginseng into red ginseng, extending its shelf life. This period was significant in establishing Korea as a prominent source of ginseng.

 

▲ This undated Yonhap file photo shows Korean ginseng, or insam. (Yonhap)

 

The importance of ginseng in Korea’s history is further depicted in Choi In-ho’s novel Sangdo, where protagonist Im Sang-ok redefines the pricing of red ginseng in China. In the story, Chinese merchants consistently undervalue red ginseng from Joseon (Korea), treating it as a low-priced commodity. To challenge this, Im Sang-ok threatens to burn his stock of red ginseng, generating a strong aroma and attracting a crowd. His stand prompts Chinese merchants to acknowledge the value of red ginseng and accept his proposed pricing. This fictionalized account underscores Korean ginseng as a top "K-product" of its time.

 

While the introduction may be lengthy, it underscores the effectiveness of Korean ginseng.

 

Today, ginseng is cultivated worldwide, but Korean ginseng remains globally renowned for its quality. As far back as the Three Kingdoms period, Korean ginseng—classified by region as Goryeo, Baekje, or Silla ginseng—was highly valued, and the "Goryeo Insam" (Goryeo ginseng) brand endures to this day.

 

Under Japanese rule, ginseng was prized not only for its quality but also for its portability, making it a practical way to fund independence movements. Independence activist Lee Ki-hwan, a prominent ginseng merchant from Gaeseong, raised funds for independence by selling dried white ginseng.

 

▲ Korean independence activist Lee Ki-hwan. (PHOTO NOT FOR SALE) (Yonhap)

 

The famous alcoholic beverage made from ginseng is known as insam-ju, or ginseng wine.

 

The earliest recorded mention of ginseng wine is found in Cheonginbang, a medical text by Chinese physician Sun Simiao of the Tang Dynasty. Records of ginseng trade from the Three Kingdoms era suggest that Koreans may have been making ginseng wine since ancient times.

 

In the late Joseon Dynasty, Imwon Gyeongjeji, an encyclopedic text, documents detailed recipes for ginseng wine. These include grinding ginseng into powder and combining it with rice yeast and glutinous rice or soaking powdered ginseng in liquor and heating it before drinking. Today, a common method of making ginseng wine at home involves infusing ginseng in soju.

 

Today, the mass-produced version of ginseng wine is known as Goryeo Insamju (Goryeo Ginseng Wine), created with selected four-year-old ginseng roots from the renowned Geumsan and Punggi regions. The ginseng is soaked at low temperatures for an extended period, preserving its natural taste, aroma, and health benefits.

 

▲ Korean ginseng wine. (PHOTO NOT FOR SALE) (Yonhap)

 

Goryeo Insamju was first produced in 1972 and, with nearly 50 years of tradition, has become a staple in Korean ginseng products. However, as more consumers have chosen to buy fresh ginseng or insam to make their own infused soju at home, domestic sales began to decline. In 2007, Lotte Liquor (now Lotte Chilsung Beverage) halted sales in South Korea, though the company continued exporting 35-proof (for Nigeria) and 28-proof (for Hong Kong and Japan) versions. The brand gained popularity overseas, leading to issues with counterfeit products in some markets.

 

In 2013, Lotte Liquor reported that focusing solely on exports from 2007 onward led to increased demand, with sales in places like Nigeria and Hong Kong climbing from 72,000 bottles in 2010 (USD 1 million) to 85,000 bottles in 2012 (USD 1.2 million). As Goryeo Insamju’s popularity grew, counterfeit versions surfaced in China, copying the product’s name and packaging but selling at a significantly lower price. Some counterfeit vendors were eventually penalized by local authorities.

 

Initially released under the name Baekhwa Insamju by Baekhwa Distillery, the brand was later renamed Baekhwa Goryeo Insamju. Over the years, production passed from Baekhwa Distillery to Doosan and eventually to Lotte.

 

Today, various types of ginseng wine are produced across South Korea, differentiated by region and variety:

 

Ganghwa Region: Known for Ganghwa Takju (rice-based ginseng raw makgeolli), Chanumul Brewery’s Hometown Ginseng Raw Makgeolli, Geumpung Brewery’s Green Gold Takju, and Juyeonhyang’s Yasu 53 G.

 

▲ Ganghwa Region's ginseng liquor

 

From left: Ganghwa Takju (a fresh makgeolli made with rice and ginseng), Chanwoomul Brewery (two types of Hometown Ginseng Fresh Makgeolli), Geumpung Brewery (Geumhak Takju Green), and Juyeonhyang (Yasu 53 G). (PHOTO NOT FOR SALE) (Yonhap)

 

Geumsan Region: Home to Geumsung Brewery’s Geumsan Ginseng Raw Makgeolli, Geumsan Brewery’s Geumsan Ginseng Makgeolli, and Geumsan Insamju (Ssam 23 & 43, Geumseol).

 

▲ Geumsan Region's ginseng liquor

 

From left: Geumseong Brewery (Geumsan Ginseng Fresh Makgeolli), Geumsan Brewery (Geumsan Ginseng Makgeolli), Geumsan Insamju (varieties Susam 23 and 43, along with Geumsul). (PHOTO NOT FOR SALE) (Yonhap)

 

Other Regions:

Natyonggwa Insam (Hongsam Myeongju) in Goesan, North Chungcheong

 

Sam Sam Ga (Samsamju) in Hongcheon, Gangwon

 

Taepyung Brewery’s Jinsim Insamju in Jinan, North Jeolla

 

Unjeong Brewery’s Paju Gaeseong Ginseng Makgeolli in Paju, Gyeonggi

 

Seoul Jangsu’s Jang Hongsam Makgeolli in Seoul

 

Daegu Jeontongju’s Samcheong Gapja Dongbangju in Daegu

 

▲ Other regional ginseng alcoholic beverages

 

From left: Nature and Ginseng (Hongsam Myeongju), Sam Sam Ga (Sam Sam Ju), Taepyung Brewery (Jinsim Insamju), Unjeong Brewery (Paju Gaeseong Ginseng Makgeolli), Seoul Jangsu (Jang Hong Sam Makgeolli), and Daegu Traditional Liquor (Samcheongapja Dongbangju). (PHOTO NOT FOR SALE) (Yonhap)

 

In addition to these, many other types of ginseng wine are produced nationwide.

 

Ginseng wine is renowned in traditional Korean medicine for its wide-ranging health benefits. It is believed to alleviate fatigue, improve memory, reduce inflammation, boost immunity, enhance circulation, and promote healthy metabolism. 

 

However, as with all alcoholic beverages, moderation is key. Ginseng wine stands as a proud testament to Korea’s heritage as an original hallyu (Korean Wave) product, celebrated for its long-standing reputation and healthful appeal worldwide.

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