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| yna@yna.co.kr 2024-12-02 17:22:03
*Editor’s note: K-VIBE invites experts from various K-culture sectors to share their extraordinary discovery about the Korean culture.
Choi Man-soon's Medicinal K-Food: Exploring the Expression 'Happiness, the Japchae'
By Choi Man-soon, Food Columnist and Director of the Korea Traditional Medicine Food Research Institute
Japchae is a dish symbolizing health and happiness, a staple on Korean celebration tables. Whether at birthdays, weddings, or 60th birthday feasts, japchae has long been a refined and festive culinary tradition.
Even when wedding banquets moved to restaurants, families often prepared japchae separately to honor the event. This highlights Koreans' enduring love for the dish.
The author recalls autumn days when their father would take them to the mountains after a rainfall, carrying a traditional straw bag—an early version of today’s backpack. Back then, Korea’s mountains were largely barren, and firewood was essential for heating and cooking in rural homes. Deeper into the mountains lay the coveted oak stumps, home to clusters of golden glkhu mushrooms (also known as mulberry mushrooms).
After gathering mushrooms and firewood, they returned home, where their mother would prepare japchae. She boiled the mushrooms in a cauldron, seasoned them with salt, and then rinsed and shredded them. In a makeshift outdoor kitchen, she heated a pot lid over hot embers, added perilla oil, garlic, chopped green onions, soaked glass noodles, soy sauce, and the seasoned mushrooms. The result was a fragrant japchae, rich with a chicken-like aroma from the mushrooms.
Mulberry mushrooms, now rare, were known for their medicinal benefits, including anti-cancer properties, cholesterol reduction, and relief from various conditions like night blindness, dry skin, respiratory issues, digestive inflammation, and insomnia.
Japchae’s essence parallels a strategy from The Art of War by Sun Tzu: "Utilize the enemy's resources." Sun Tzu suggested leveraging the enemy's supplies to reduce one's own consumption, weakening the opposition while bolstering one’s strength.
Similarly, the primary ingredient in japchae—glass noodles—is neutral and flavorless, likened to an unassuming canvas. Yet, when paired with diverse “enemy” ingredients, it transforms into a harmonious dish, achieving a synergy of flavors. Japchae embodies the philosophy of collaboration and adaptability, much like a chameleon.
From being the highlight of a dish to playing supporting roles in foods like soondae (blood sausage), potato soup, or dumplings, japchae’s versatility extends to new identities such as soondae dangmyeon or dumpling glass noodles.
Glass noodles, the cornerstone of japchae, adapt chameleon-like to the ingredients they pair with, whether vegetables, mushrooms, or meat, giving rise to variations such as vegetable japchae, mushroom japchae, and meat japchae.
Despite the name "dangmyeon" (당면), which suggests origins in the Tang Dynasty, this is a uniquely Korean term. Historically, the noodles were called "homen" (胡面) in reference to food eaten by Qing-era people, but later the name shifted to "dangmyeon," associating it with the Han Chinese (Tang dynasty). Interestingly, the term "dangmyeon" does not exist in China; there, it’s known as fentiao (粉條) or fensi (粉絲).
These noodles are typically made from starches such as sweet potato, mung bean, or potato. The production involves mixing about one-third of the starch with hot water (~55°C) into a paste, then kneading it with additional starch and cooler water (~25–35°C). This dough is pressed through a noodle mold into boiling water, cooled, and sun-dried to form fentiao. The process resembles modern methods for making wheat noodles or naengmyeon.
Glass noodles contain resistant starch, a carbohydrate that resists digestion by enzymes in the small intestine. Research suggests this starch offers numerous health benefits, including treating colon polyps, preventing diabetes, and reducing cancer risk.
According to a University of Colorado study, resistant starch ferments in the large intestine, promoting the growth of beneficial bacteria and supporting gut health. Like dietary fiber, it aids in digestion, regulates blood sugar, and enhances insulin sensitivity.
Cancer and Polyp Prevention: Resistant starch helps eliminate colon polyps that could develop into cancer.
Diabetes Management: It improves insulin sensitivity and regulates blood sugar levels.
Weight Maintenance and Inflammation Reduction: The starch helps maintain a healthy weight and reduces inflammation linked to conditions like ulcerative colitis and Crohn's disease.
Digestive Support: By increasing stool bulk and accelerating transit time through the colon, it improves overall digestive health.
Glass noodles, though simple in origin, carry significant health benefits and represent an ingredient that transcends mere nutrition, echoing japchae's philosophy of adaptability and harmony.
Japchae, a quintessential Korean dish, represents much more than a culinary delight. Rooted in harmony and tradition, it carries a rich history and nutritional value that has evolved over centuries.
The versatility of starch noodles—be it sweet potato, potato, or mung bean—lends japchae its distinctive charm.
Sweet Potato Noodles: Rich in carotenoids and vitamin A, these noodles enhance eye health, offer anti-aging and antioxidant benefits, and aid in cancer prevention. They are also packed with B vitamins, including riboflavin (B2) and niacin (B3).
Potato Noodles: A gluten-free energy source, they improve digestion, promote healthy skin, and regulate blood sugar. Their ability to maintain gut microbiota balance and provide satiety supports weight management and reduces allergy-induced skin irritation.
Mung Bean Noodles: Known for detoxifying harmful substances and reducing blood lipid levels, these noodles help prevent eye hemorrhages, hypertension, and swelling. However, pairing mung bean noodles with tomatoes is discouraged for optimal nutritional synergy.
The additional ingredients in japchae, such as vegetables, mushrooms, and meats, complement the noodles by offering antioxidants, immune-boosting properties, and protein. This balance transforms japchae into a healthful, celebratory dish.
Japchae’s origins trace back to the reign of King Gwanghaegun in the 17th century during the Joseon Dynasty. Initially crafted as a royal dish, it was so beloved that the king would eagerly await its presentation at meals. However, japchae of the past lacked noodles, relying instead on stir-fried vegetables, meat, and sauces made from pheasant broth thickened with flour and flavored with fermented soybean paste.
The incorporation of noodles began during Japan's colonial rule over Korea. In 1919, Yang Jae-ha established the Gwangheung factory in Sariwon, producing glass noodles at scale. These chewy, resilient noodles gained popularity for their ability to absorb seasonings and complement various dishes like stews and hot pots. By the 1930s, cookbooks such as Simple Korean Cooking Methods and Seasonal Korean Cuisine listed glass noodles as an essential ingredient in japchae.
Japchae is more than a beloved dish; it embodies the essence of communal joy and the seamless blending of diverse elements. As a symbol of celebration and prosperity, it continues to grace Korean tables, bridging past and present.
Even in contemporary culture, japchae’s spirit lives on in linguistic trends. The phrase “000, that japchae (그 잡채)!”—meaning “the epitome of something”—became a popular meme among the MZ generation. The expression mirrors japchae’s adaptable nature, reinforcing the idea of harmony and perfection in any context.
Japchae remains a dish that connects Korea’s heritage with its future, destined to bring joy and share the country’s culinary history with the world. It is truly "Happiness, that japchae!"
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