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| yna@yna.co.kr 2025-02-17 12:32:13
*Editor’s note: K-VIBE invites experts from various K-culture sectors to share their extraordinary discovery about the Korean culture.
Choi Man-soon's Medicinal K-Food: Yakgwa, Trailblazer of K-Wave
By Choi Man-soon, Food Columnist and Director of the Korea Traditional Medicine Food Research Institute
The traditional Korean snack "yakgwa" is experiencing a surge in popularity. Originating during the Goryeo Dynasty, yakgwa remains a beloved treat even today.
This is a reflection of the "Halmae-ni-al" (grandmother + millennial) trend. As the MZ generation grows more interested in healthy ingredients, they have begun to turn toward traditional snacks. Consequently, the food industry has quickly launched yakgwa and other traditional snacks to cater to this growing interest.
For me, yakgwa represents a snack imbued with the aesthetic of long-awaited fulfillment. When I was a child, about a week before the Lunar New Year, my mother would be incredibly busy preparing the ingredients for yakgwa, including making corn syrup.
First, she would soak corn in lukewarm water for two days. Then, the soaked corn would be finely ground using a millstone. The ground corn, water, and malt would be boiled in a cauldron for about an hour, after which the heat would be turned off and left to ferment for a day.
The following day, the heat would be turned back on, and malt would be added to boil for half a day. Then, the mixture would be strained through a hemp cloth, and the remaining solids discarded in the garden, while the broth would be stirred with a spatula for over seven hours until it thickened into syrup. When my mother had to briefly step away, she would call me to make sure I stirred the mixture carefully so it wouldn’t burn. The resulting syrup would then be stored in a container.
The scorched bits left at the bottom of the cauldron are corn syrup. The sweetness is a taste my body remembers.
In terms of traditional medicine, the corn extract (膏) has been completed. During this time, the coldest period of winter, known as the "Jeongcho Hanpa" (early cold wave), when the frigid weather can be harsh, it's important to boost the energy of the kidneys and ward off the cold to stay healthy.
There is a term called "Yangsin Banghan" (nourishing kidneys and preventing cold), which refers to actions that promote kidney health and prevent the cold. Foods recommended for this purpose, such as concentrated extracts (補膏方), have been mentioned in ancient texts like the "Huangdi Neijing" and "Wushibing Fang." The benefits of corn syrup are said to strengthen the weak, assist the internal organs, help dispel phlegm, and stop coughing.
In terms of health benefits, corn is sweet in taste, neutral in nature, and helps prevent swelling when consumed. It is also beneficial for preventing indigestion and various adult diseases.
I recall more memories from when we were preparing yakgwa.
My mother would bring out the yakgwa mold she kept in storage and carefully clean it with sesame oil. She then mixed 8 parts flour with 2 parts rice flour, adding cinnamon powder, salt, pepper, and sesame oil, sifting the mixture, and then adding the syrup to make the dough. After that, she would brush the mold with sesame oil again, press the dough into it, and carefully fry the pieces in oil until they turned a golden brown.
Once fried, the yakgwa would be placed in a strainer to drain the oil, then soaked in the syrup for a day until fully absorbed. Afterward, the syrup would be allowed to dry on the surface of the yakgwa for several hours before it was ready to eat. At the time, it felt like that waiting period lasted a year.
In Sun Tzu’s "Art of War," the concept of "Bingse" refers to the military's "formation" and "momentum," addressing how to efficiently manage the movements and tactics of the army. Using the traditional Korean snack yakgwa as an analogy, we can explain the process of making it in a similar way.
First, Sun Tzu stated that the essence of Bingse lies in the harmony between form (形) and momentum (勢). This is akin to the way the ingredients of yakgwa—flour, syrup, sesame oil—must blend harmoniously to bring out the best in each one.
The basic structure and ingredient composition of yakgwa can be likened to the military organization and formation in terms of "shape" (形).
The process of frying the yakgwa and soaking it in syrup or honey to enhance its flavor can be viewed as "momentum" (勢). This is similar to the tactics of changing momentum according to the situation.
In other words, yakgwa is not simply about mixing ingredients. It is important that each ingredient blends well together, achieving balance and harmony. Similarly, military strategies must organically combine shape and momentum depending on the different types of forces and situations.
Additionally, flexibility through change and adaptation is necessary during the process of frying the yakgwa. When frying the dough, it is important to adjust the temperature of the heat and oil, and the frying time carefully.
If the yakgwa becomes too dark while frying, the heat should be lowered, and if the color is too light, the fire should be increased. This symbolizes the flexibility required in combat to observe the situation and respond quickly.
Sun Tzu further stated, "In military tactics, it is important to break the enemy's momentum and strengthen your own." To make yakgwa delicious, the key step is the syrup coating.
The syrup is not simply added for sweetness, but is a crucial step that makes the yakgwa moist and adds flavor. This is akin to tactics in battle, where deceiving the enemy or stealing their momentum plays a key role. Overpowering the opponent at the right moment is a crucial factor for success in battle. The syrup coating of the yakgwa is the decisive process that determines its final quality.
Thus, the finished yakgwa is the result of harmony through all the ingredients and processes. Sun Tzu stated that victory in warfare is achieved through the harmony of shape and momentum, adaptation to change, and the use of momentum.
The process of making yakgwa resembles the organic strategies mentioned in military tactics. To achieve the best result, carefulness and flexibility are required at each stage.
In conclusion, Sun Tzu emphasized, "A great general creates momentum and uses that momentum to win victories." The process of making yakgwa is no different. Yakgwa is not simply a traditional snack, but symbolically demonstrates the principles of military tactics, such as the harmony of shape and momentum, flexibility, and the use of momentum in its production.
The deep health philosophy embedded in a single piece of yakgwa holds value beyond just a simple snack.
When Goryeo adopted Buddhism as the state religion, most of the food at that time moved further away from meat-based ingredients due to its influence. It is said that even offering fish and meat on the sacrificial table was prohibited.
As a result, sweets replaced fish and meat offerings, leading to the development of a strong culture of confectionery. The Goryeo culture, known as Goryeo Yang, became popular in the Yuan Dynasty of China, and yakgwa was one of the popular sweets of that time. It can be considered an original K-food.
However, during times of famine or political instability, the making of yakgwa was sometimes legally banned outside of the royal court. This was because ingredients like flour, honey, syrup, and oil were expensive, and the cost burden was too great for large public banquets organized by the state.
By the time of the Joseon Dynasty’s King Seongjong, yakgwa, along with other sweet snacks, was regularly featured on the offerings during ancestral rites and feasts in countless homes, regardless of whether the family was of noble or common status. Despite laws prohibiting it, the popularity of yakgwa remained, and people continued to seek it out due to its great taste.
Today, as K-food gains global recognition through dramas and other media, traditional Korean snacks like yakgwa are receiving attention. The more people try it and find it delicious and healthful, the more interest it generates in a positive cycle. Among numerous K-foods, yakgwa stands out as a beloved national snack that has long been cherished by both commoners and royalty.
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