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| yna@yna.co.kr 2024-09-26 15:09:41
* Editor's Note: According to the Korea Foundation's 2024 report, there are nearly 225 million Hallyu (Korean Wave) fans worldwide. With the advent of the "Digital Silk Road," transcending time and space, we are entering the era of "Hallyu 4.0." To help readers gain a fresh perspective on Korean culture and K-culture, the Yonhap News K-Culture Team has prepared a series of expert columns.
Shin Jong-geun's 'K-Liqueur' Story: Hansan’s Pride, Sogokju
Contributed by Shin Jong-geun, exhibition planner and columnist (author of "Art and Liquor")
When people think of Hansan in Seocheon County, Chungcheongnam-do, many immediately associate it with Hansan ramie fabric, while enthusiasts of traditional alcohol think of Hansan Sogokju.
Hansan ramie has long been renowned for its superior quality, known for its delicate and elegant texture, and has become synonymous with ramie fabric. This traditional scene of weaving ramie is well captured in the paintings of Gisan Kim Jun-geun (dates unknown), a late Joseon Dynasty painter.
Kim Jun-geun was a genre painter in the late 19th century who sold his works to Westerners in open ports like Busan and Wonsan. His works are displayed in over 20 museums worldwide, including Germany, France, the U.K., Denmark, and the U.S., totaling more than 1,500 pieces. His genre paintings helped introduce Joseon customs to the world, making him a pioneer of early “Korean Wave” art. Additionally, he illustrated the first Western literary work translated into Korean, The Pilgrim's Progress.
Another specialty of Hansan is Hansan Sogokju, a medicinal rice wine produced in Hansan-myeon, Seocheon County. It is said to have been enjoyed by the royal family of the Baekje Kingdom over 1,300 years ago. Known as a prestigious liquor passed down from the Goryeo Dynasty, it is believed to achieve its best flavor when brewed with water from a well at the foot of Geonjisan Mountain in Jihyeon-ri, Hansan-myeon.
Currently, Sogokju is produced in more than 70 breweries and homes throughout the Hansan area, each with its own secret recipe. Since June 2013, the name “Hansan Sogokju” has been legally protected under a geographical indication trademark, meaning that only rice wine produced in Hansan-myeon, Seocheon County, can be called Hansan Sogokju. Breweries in neighboring areas produce similar rice wines but must market them under different names.
The modern legacy of Hansan Sogokju has been maintained by Kim Young-shin (now deceased), a former master craftsman from Hoam-ri, Hansan-myeon. She passed down the traditional brewing methods to her daughter-in-law, Woo Hee-yeol, who has continued the family legacy for over 30 years. After Kim’s passing, Woo succeeded her in 1997, becoming the next holder of Chungnam Intangible Cultural Property No. 3, and later was recognized as National Food Master No. 19. Her son, Na Jang-yeon, now carries on the brewing tradition.
The name “Sogokju” has various origins. One theory is that it derives from the pure-hearted manner in which the wine was brewed, with “So” meaning “white” or “pure” and “Gok” referring to “liquor.” Another theory suggests it was brewed by Baekje refugees, while some say “Sogok” refers to a type of yeast.
Hansan Sogokju is famously known as “Sitting Wine.” According to one story, a daughter-in-law, tasting the wine while brewing, became so intoxicated that she couldn’t stand up and had to crawl around like a “sitting” person. Another story tells of a scholar on his way to the capital for the civil service exam who stopped in Hansan for a drink of Sogokju. He became so engrossed in reciting poetry and enjoying the moonlight that he missed the exam, giving the wine its nickname.
Hansan Sogokju has a sweet, umami-rich taste with little noticeable alcohol due to its base of glutinous rice. Chrysanthemum, red pepper, and soybeans are often used as additional ingredients. Two types of Sogokju are produced: unpasteurized and pasteurized, though most are pasteurized due to distribution challenges. There is also a distilled version, known as “Bulsogokju” or “Sogokhwaju,” which has an alcohol content exceeding 40%.
Since 2015, the Seocheon County government has held the Hansan Sogokju Festival on the last weekend of October, featuring activities such as Sogokju brewing experiences, tastings, food pairings, and auctions. Visitors can also try Hansan ramie and ramie rice cakes. The Hansan Sogokju Experience Center offers tastings of various Sogokju brands year-round, except on Mondays, and the wines are available for purchase.
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