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| yna@yna.co.kr 2024-09-20 11:15:03
* Editor's Note: According to the Korea Foundation's 2024 report, there are nearly 225 million Hallyu (Korean Wave) fans worldwide. With the advent of the "Digital Silk Road," transcending time and space, we are entering the era of "Hallyu 4.0." To help readers gain a fresh perspective on Korean culture and K-culture, the Yonhap News K-Culture Team has prepared a series of expert columns.
Shin Jong-geun's 'K-Liqueur' Story: Do You Know Cheongmyeongju?
Contributed by Shin Jong-geun, exhibition planner and columnist (author of "Art and Liquor")
Cheongmyeongju is a traditional Korean liquor brewed during "Cheongmyeong" (淸明), one of the 24 solar terms, which typically falls on April 5 or 6 according to the Gregorian calendar.
This period is known for having the clearest skies of the year, marking the beginning of spring farming and the preparation for the year’s crops. On Cheongmyeong, people would pray for a bountiful harvest, and it’s said that even if you plant a stick in the ground, it would sprout—signifying the vitality of the season.
The history of Cheongmyeongju dates back to the late Joseon Dynasty around 1830, when Silhak scholar Choi Han-gi mentioned in his agricultural book Nongjeong Hoeyo (農政會要) that the best time to brew liquor is during Cheongmyeong or Gogu (another solar term), when the water is particularly fresh and sweet. This, he said, enhances the flavor and color of the brew. Another Silhak scholar, Yi Ik, also praised Cheongmyeongju in his writings, calling it his favorite liquor and even documenting the brewing process so it wouldn’t be forgotten.
Though once brewed widely across Korea, today Cheongmyeongju can primarily be found in two regions: Chungju in North Chungcheong Province and Jeongeup in North Jeolla Province, known respectively as "Chungju Cheongmyeongju" and "Hanyeongseok Cheongmyeongju."
The term "Cheongmyeongju" is a general name for this type of liquor, meaning that anyone can use it, which is why specific names like "Chungju Cheongmyeongju" are used to identify particular versions. One famous example is the "Jungwon Cheongmyeongju," which was designated as Intangible Cultural Property No. 2 of North Chungcheong Province in 1993, and is now called "Chungju Cheongmyeongju." This variant is a family-brewed liquor passed down through the Kim family of Changdong-ri in Chungju, whose recipe is documented in their traditional medical text Hyangjeonrok (鄕傳錄).
Yi Gyugyeong, another late Joseon scholar, noted in his encyclopedia Ojuyeon Munjang Jeonsango (五洲衍文長箋散稿) that Cheongmyeongju was unique to people in the Gumtan (金還) region, which refers to present-day Changdong-ri in Chungju. He wrote that the liquor’s quality could not be replicated elsewhere, even if other regions tried.
Historically, Cheongmyeongju was a favorite among scholars traveling from Gyeongsang Province to the capital for civil service exams. As they passed through Chungju, they would often drink Cheongmyeongju to refresh themselves for the arduous journey, and it was believed to clear the mind, helping many scholars pass their exams. Cheongmyeongju was even offered to the royal court during the Joseon Dynasty.
Although production of Chungju Cheongmyeongju was interrupted during the Japanese occupation, it was revived by Master Kim Yeong-gi, who reconstructed the recipe from ancient texts like Hyangjeonrok. His son, Kim Yeong-seop, now continues the family tradition as the master brewer of Jungwondang.
Known as the "textbook of medicinal liquors," Chungju Cheongmyeongju won the President's Award at the 2022 Korean Alcoholic Beverage Competition and was chosen as the official dinner drink for the 2023 Korea-Pacific Islands Summit.
Cheongmyeongju, a liquor traditionally brewed during the "Cheongmyeong" (淸明) solar term, continues its legacy with the release of the relatively recent 'Han Young-seok Cheongmyeongju' in 2022. Han Young-seok, head of the fermentation research institute in Jeongeup, North Jeolla Province, began his journey into fermentation after developing a keen interest in fermented vinegar to aid his recovery from a spinal infection in his early 40s. This path eventually led him to traditional liquor brewing.
In 2020, Han became Korea’s first traditional nuruk (fermentation starter) master. Initially, he intended to supply nuruk to breweries rather than brew liquor himself. However, breweries preferred modernized nuruk or Japanese-style "koji" (입국) for brewing, avoiding traditional nuruk due to its strong flavor, which consumers reportedly disliked. To prove that fine liquor could be produced with traditional nuruk, Han decided to brew Cheongmyeongju himself, using nuruk he personally made.
A unique feature of Han Young-seok Cheongmyeongju is its variation in nuruk with each batch. While the ingredients remain the same, different types of nuruk are used, and each batch is labeled accordingly—'Batch 1' used rice nuruk, 'Batch 2' used fragrant nuruk, and 'Batch 3' used mung bean nuruk, with each batch limited to 6,000 bottles. The label system has now expanded up to 14 batches, increasing the rarity of each release.
Despite differences in their brewing philosophies, both 'Han Young-seok Cheongmyeongju' and 'Chungju Cheongmyeongju' are similar in terms of ingredients and methods. Both use glutinous rice and nuruk as the base. The main difference lies in the type of nuruk used—Chungju Cheongmyeongju employs modern nuruk and is brewed at 17% alcohol, while Han Young-seok Cheongmyeongju uses handmade traditional nuruk and has a lower alcohol content of 13.8%.
While Kim Yeong-seop, the head of Jungwondang responsible for Chungju Cheongmyeongju, emphasizes the importance of ingredient ratios, water, and fermentation temperature, Han Young-seok argues that nuruk is the key factor. In reality, all elements are crucial to achieving the desired flavor.
Another distinguishing feature of Cheongmyeongju is its acidity. Both varieties boast distinct sour notes—Chungju Cheongmyeongju has a sweetness balanced with acidity, while Han Young-seok Cheongmyeongju offers a lighter, more fleeting sourness.
While Cheongmyeongju was traditionally consumed during the Cheongmyeong period, it can now be enjoyed year-round. Both versions have captivated the palates of Korean liquor lovers.
Though the Cheongmyeong season has long passed, offering Cheongmyeongju to ancestors during this Chuseok in hopes of a bountiful year seems like a fitting tribute.
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