연합뉴스
| yna@yna.co.kr 2025-03-20 13:29:46
*Editor’s note: K-VIBE invites experts from various K-culture sectors to share their extraordinary discovery about the Korean culture.
Choi Man-soon's Medicinal K-Food: The Dream of Sustainability, Noodles
By Choi Man-soon, Food Columnist and Director of the Korea Traditional Medicine Food Research Institute
Since ancient times in Korea, noodles have been offered during celebrations such as weddings, birthdays, and the 60th birthday, as well as during ancestral rites to honor the deceased.
The long and thin shape of the noodles seemed to embody the wish for joy and remembrance to continue without interruption.
As a result, noodles became an indispensable food in life's important rites of passage. According to historical documents from the Joseon Dynasty, there were as many as 50 different types of noodles.
Among them, buckwheat flour was the most commonly used ingredient, followed by wheat flour and mung bean flour.
In the northern regions, where buckwheat grew abundantly, hearty buckwheat noodles and refreshing cold noodles developed. In contrast, in the southern regions, where warmth prevailed, soft wheat flour noodles, such as kalguksu (knife-cut noodles), were beloved.
Buckwheat is a nutrient-rich and health-beneficial grain. Notably, it contains no gluten, making it easy to digest, and it has numerous health benefits.
Buckwheat is packed with rutin, which strengthens blood vessels and helps improve blood circulation. Thanks to this, it is effective in preventing hypertension and reducing the risk of cardiovascular diseases such as arteriosclerosis and stroke.
Moreover, buckwheat has a low glycemic index, which helps prevent rapid spikes in blood sugar levels. Its rich dietary fiber also slows the absorption of carbohydrates, assisting in the prevention of diabetes.
The insoluble dietary fiber in buckwheat promotes intestinal movement, preventing constipation, and helps prolong satiety, making it beneficial for dieting. Buckwheat is also rich in minerals and antioxidants, which help reduce inflammation in the body and slow down the aging process.
However, people who have a cold constitution or weak digestion should be cautious not to consume too much buckwheat. This is why the saying "eating too much buckwheat makes the body thin" has been passed down through generations. When consumed in moderation, buckwheat is a valuable grain that helps maintain good health.
◇ Mother's Buckwheat Hand-Kalguksu
When I was young, my mother's hand-cut noodles were an essential part of our family meals. Depending on the season and circumstances, she alternated between using buckwheat, acorn, and soybean flour, but on days when my father drank alcohol, buckwheat hand-kalguksu would always be served.
My mother would go to the grain store and reach deep into a large sack of buckwheat, scooping out a full scoop of whole buckwheat kernels. She would pour the buckwheat into a large bamboo sieve and gently shake it to remove stones and impurities. After washing it several times in cold water and draining it, my mother would instruct me.
"Son, when soaking the buckwheat, four hours is enough in the summer, and six hours in the winter."
After soaking for the correct amount of time, the buckwheat became plump. My mother would place a ladleful of buckwheat onto a millstone, adding a little water at a time to adjust the consistency. As she turned the millstone with both hands, the buckwheat released brown water, which accumulated in a large wooden container.
Then, my mother mixed in wheat flour, which made up 30% of the buckwheat, and added salt, slowly pouring lukewarm water to knead the dough with care.
After forming the dough into a round shape, she covered it with a cloth and let it rest for 30 to 40 minutes, during which time the surface became smooth and shiny.
Once the dough had rested enough, my mother placed it on a large cutting board, sprinkling flour lightly before preparing to roll it out. With a rolling pin, she carefully flattened the dough, starting from the edges. She then looked back at me and said,
"By doing it this way, the dough will spread evenly and get wider."
After repeatedly rolling and unrolling the dough, it was eventually spread out to a thickness of 1 to 2 millimeters. My mother, with skillful hands, folded the dough and cut it neatly into 0.5 cm strips.
The cut noodles were gently tossed to prevent them from sticking together, with excess flour shaken off.
Once the fire was lit under the cauldron, the warmth from the burning wood spread gently. After boiling anchovies and radish for about 10 minutes, a savory aroma filled the air.
After removing the anchovies, my mother added doenjang (fermented soybean paste) to deepen the broth's flavor. She carefully added the noodles to the broth, stirring gently with large chopsticks until the noodles turned translucent.
Finally, the hot buckwheat hand-kalguksu was ready. My mother made a dipping sauce by mixing aged soy sauce, minced garlic, and red pepper powder, and served it alongside kimchi that had been chopped into small pieces.
As I slurped up the noodles, I could still feel my mother's warm touch.
The leftover dough scraps were placed on the embers of the cauldron's fire. Carefully turning them to avoid the flames, the dough quickly puffed up. Like small balloons, the puffed-up kalguksu crackers were soon crisped up.
A bite of the cracker filled my mouth with a delicious, savory aroma. Along with my mother’s kalguksu, the crisp memories will never fade from my heart.
◇ Noodle Making Through the Lens of Sun Tzu's Art of War
In the "Terrain" chapter of The Art of War by Sun Tzu, the importance of terrain in warfare is emphasized. Sun Tzu argued that strategies should change according to the terrain. This concept is applicable to modern society, including leadership, organizational management, and business strategy. By applying this to traditional Korean noodle ingredients (wheat, buckwheat, acorn, corn), we can draw some parallels.
Sun Tzu stated that terrain that is easy to traverse is advantageous, as both the enemy and the troops can move easily through it. Therefore, whoever occupies the terrain first has the advantage. Today, wheat flour noodles are the most common and easily accessible. The preparation methods are diverse, simple, and the noodles have great elasticity, making them versatile in various dishes.
However, because it is so easily accessible to everyone, without any special strategy, it can lose its competitive edge, making early occupation important.
Rugged terrain, according to Sun Tzu, is difficult for both offense and defense. If the enemy has already occupied such terrain, it must be defended without movement. Buckwheat hand-cut noodles, made by grinding buckwheat with its husk on, are difficult to knead and form because buckwheat lacks gluten compared to wheat flour. However, with skilled technique, buckwheat noodles can be transformed into delicious, flavorful, and nutritious noodles.
The "stalemate" terrain, where both sides can easily move, requires mobility. In comparison to acorn hand-cut noodles, acorns contain tannins that help stabilize blood sugar and maintain healthy digestive organs. Thus, in areas where mobility is essential, quick blood sugar regulation and digestion are necessary. Acorn hand-cut noodles, which keep the body light and flexible, are advantageous in strategies requiring swift movement and agility.
Sun Tzu also focused on narrow paths. He advised that if you occupy the narrow path before the enemy, you must defend it; if you are late, you should avoid it. Tadpole noodles are made without wheat flour, using only buckwheat or corn flour, which is then pressed into a mold and cooked without kneading. Tadpole noodles are easily digestible and provide a quick energy boost. Just as occupying a narrow path first is critical, tadpole noodles, with their rapid digestion, are suited for swift troop movement and quick battle preparation.
Isolated terrain is difficult for retreat and resupply. Sun Tzu said it is hard to defend and fight in such terrain. Jjolmyeon (chewy noodles) originated in such an isolated state. The dish was accidentally developed by the company "Gwangsin Jmyeon" in Incheon when they mistakenly made the noodles too thick. Jjolmyeon has a higher protein content than regular noodles and, due to its chewy texture, provides a long-lasting feeling of fullness. In isolated situations, endurance is crucial. Like jjolmyeon, which has excellent durability and chewy strength, a strategy that prepares for long battles is necessary.
Finally, Sun Tzu mentioned the "death terrain," where all exits are blocked, and one must fight with all their strength. If noodles are cooked too long, they lose their elasticity, and both the flavor and texture degrade. This is like a delay in a battle, where morale decreases and the likelihood of survival becomes slim. To prevent noodles from becoming soggy and falling apart like troops in a delayed battle, swift and decisive actions are necessary.
Just as in war, strategies should adjust according to terrain, noodles must be consumed according to one's physical condition and environment. Understanding the types of noodles and their health benefits allows us to apply them to our dietary habits and strategic thinking.
In Korea, foods made from rice are called "tteok" (餠), while those made from wheat flour or buckwheat flour are called "myeon" (麵 or noodles). The name "myeon" originates from the practice of rinsing boiled noodles in cold water and then lifting them up.
Today, noodles are a globally beloved dish, and their preparation is relatively simple, giving them a history even longer than bread.
During the Joseon Dynasty, records of royal banquets, such as in the Jinchan-ui-gwe and Jinyeon-ui-gwe, mention noodle broths over 20 times. In these records, buckwheat was the main ingredient for noodles.
Noodles were not limited to just buckwheat and wheat flour. They could also be made from a variety of grains and starches such as mung beans, sweet potatoes, corn, yams, acorns, chestnuts, and more. Sometimes, wheat and buckwheat flour were mixed to create a chewier texture. Noodles made from sweet potato or potato starch became the precursor to today’s popular dangmyeon (sweet potato starch noodles).
Thus, noodles have continuously evolved through various ingredients and methods across eras, maintaining a steady place on our tables.
On YouTube, we can see various fusion dishes emerging with the theme "K-Noodle" from different countries around the world. While there are many types of noodles in China, Japan, Southeast Asia, and Italy, Korean noodles are likely to make another significant contribution to the global K-food craze in this current wave.
[ⓒ K-VIBE. 무단전재-재배포 금지]