연합뉴스
| yna@yna.co.kr 2024-11-29 16:52:21
* Editor's Note: According to the Korea Foundation's 2024 report, there are nearly 225 million Hallyu (Korean Wave) fans worldwide. With the advent of the "Digital Silk Road," transcending time and space, we are entering the era of "Hallyu 4.0." To help readers gain a fresh perspective on Korean culture and K-culture, the Yonhap News K-Culture Team has prepared a series of expert columns.
Shin Jong-geun's 'K-Liqueur' Story: Buckwheat Liquors
Contributed by Shin Jong-geun, exhibition planner and columnist (author of "Art and Liquor")
When you think of buckwheat, most might recall "The Buckwheat Season," a famous Korean novel by Lee Hyo-seok.
The association often extends to Bongpyeong in Pyeongchang County, Gangwon Province, the story's setting and a hub for buckwheat-themed tourism. However, Korea's largest buckwheat producer is actually Jeju Island, followed by Gangwon Province.
The word "buckwheat" derives from "me/mue," meaning mountain, and "mil," meaning grain. Archaeological evidence from Korea's Balhae era suggests its use dates back at least to the Three Kingdoms period.
While often overshadowed by potatoes and sweet potatoes as famine crops, buckwheat earned high praise in historical records, including the Annals of King Jeongjo. Its stems were used as livestock feed, and its grains became staples for making noodles, cold noodles, and buckwheat jelly.
Less known is buckwheat's historical role in Korean alcohol production. The grain's starch-rich profile made it ideal for brewing, with buckwheat soju recipes appearing in classic texts like Imwon Gyeongjeji and Sangayorok. Traditionally, it was made with autumn barley, though modern versions often use rice alongside buckwheat.
◇ Jeju Badang's "Memil Iseul"
Jeju Island’s Memil Iseul (Buckwheat Dew) has its roots in Halla Mountain's "First Village Below," Korea's smallest and highest settlement. In 2015, the 15 households in this village formed an agricultural cooperative to produce buckwheat products, eventually collaborating with the local distillery Jeju Badang.
After years of trial and error, they perfected a 40-proof distilled liquor crafted from 100% Jeju-grown buckwheat and rice. The result is a smooth drink that retains buckwheat’s distinct aroma without the heaviness often found in grain spirits.
◇ Breeze and Stream’s "Burnt Memil"
In Gangwon Province, Breeze and Stream, a local agricultural company in Inje, champions "pungryu" (elegance and refined taste) as its core philosophy. Their Burnt Memil soju is made from roasted buckwheat sourced from Chuncheon, blended with rice.
This artisanal soju won a gold medal at the 2024 San Francisco World Spirits Competition, one of the world’s top three distilled spirits contests. Following this success, the distillery introduced Burnt Barley 25, Korea’s first roasted barley soju, which won silver at the same competition. Their innovative use of grains has firmly established them as a leader in local craft spirits.
From Jeju to Gangwon, buckwheat continues to inspire unique interpretations in Korean culinary and cultural traditions, bridging the past and the present.
◇ Duruyang Brewery’s "M24" and "MemilRO 25"
In Hongcheon, Gangwon Province, Duruyang Brewery creates buckwheat liquors using local buckwheat and rice.
MemilRO 25 stands out for its nutty, tangy aroma, encapsulating the essence of buckwheat.
M24 offers a fresh and vibrant profile, rich in floral buckwheat notes, catering to lighter tastes.
◇ Distiller and Brewer’s "Hedeul8" Makgeolli and Distilled Liquor "Hedeul"
Distiller and Brewer, based in Chuncheon, a city that regards buckwheat as a defining local resource, produces buckwheat-based beverages.
Nan-Jang Makgeolli was inspired by a folktale about goblins’ fondness for buckwheat jelly. Dubbed “Makgeolli that goblins adore,” it was a limited-edition brew for the 2024 Chuncheon Mime Festival.
Hedeul Makgeolli combines roasted Chuncheon buckwheat and rice, further enriched with buckwheat tea. This craft makgeolli undergoes a meticulous fermentation process of 720 hours.
Hedeul Distilled Liquor, made from the same base as Hedeul Makgeolli, is a golden-hued 40-proof spirit that captures the nutty aroma and deep aftertaste of buckwheat. Aged for a year in earthenware, it is set for release next month.
The name “Hedeul” evokes both the abundant blooming of buckwheat flowers and the sense of pleasant intoxication.
◇ Hans Farm’s "Bongpyeong Buckwheat Makgeolli"
Hans Farm, a brewery in Bongpyeong, Pyeongchang, Gangwon Province, specializes in Bongpyeong Buckwheat Makgeolli.
This 6-proof drink is made with buckwheat, rice, and pristine bedrock water from 600 meters above sea level in Pyeongchang.
Using low-temperature, prolonged fermentation techniques, the brew brings out the delicate aroma and flavor of buckwheat.
Once an easily grown staple, buckwheat has become a rare and costly ingredient due to climate change and decreased demand. Despite these challenges, breweries across Korea continue to innovate, preserving tradition while using local specialties to promote their regions.
Their dedication to crafting unique buckwheat liquors not only supports regional identity but also enriches Korea’s vibrant drinking culture.
[ⓒ K-VIBE. 무단전재-재배포 금지]