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| yna@yna.co.kr 2025-01-24 14:30:48
* Editor's Note: According to the Korea Foundation's 2024 report, there are nearly 225 million Hallyu (Korean Wave) fans worldwide. With the advent of the "Digital Silk Road," transcending time and space, we are entering the era of "Hallyu 4.0." To help readers gain a fresh perspective on Korean culture and K-culture, the Yonhap News K-Culture Team has prepared a series of expert columns.
Shin Jong-geun's 'K-Liqueur' Story: Do you know Gyeryong Baegilju?
Contributed by Shin Jong-geun, exhibition planner and columnist (author of "Art and Liquor")
The artist Shin Hyun-guk, known as the "painter of Gyeryongsan," set up his studio under the famous Gyeryongsan Mountain, one of Korea's revered mountains, and for over 60 years, he has painted the four seasons of Gyeryongsan.
One of his representative works, "Echo of the Mountain," captures the view of Gyeryongsan, which he has consistently depicted for decades. It is well known as a piece that transcends traditional painting styles, created with sincere sweat, passion, and a spirit of challenge, showcasing his own unique vision of Gyeryongsan.
On the 19th of last month, the artist donated Echo of the Mountain to his hometown, Yesan County in Chungcheongnam-do.
The southern part of Gyeryongsan was not only a candidate for a new capital during the early Joseon Dynasty but also a place where a small religious group had flourished for a long time, due to the legend recorded in the Jeonggamnok (鄭鑑錄), an obscure text from the Joseon Dynasty, which predicted that the Jeong family would make this place their capital.
Due to its unique topography and natural environment, Gyeryongsan has long been known as a place where spiritual energy converges, and it is famous for attracting shamans.
Another notable feature of Gyeryong is Gyeryong Baegilju (鷄龍百日酒), a liquor with a 400-year history. Lee Gwi (李貴), a key figure in the Injo Restoration who helped overthrow King Gwanghaegun during the Joseon Dynasty, was rewarded by the king with several gifts, one of which was a document detailing the brewing method for the royal liquor Baegilju. Lee Gwi's wife used this document to brew the liquor, but it turned out to taste even better than the royal Baegilju, which led to her presenting it back to the king, and thus, the liquor became known as Yeonan Lee's Baegilju.
Since then, the Yeonan Lee family has passed down the brewing method from daughter-in-law to daughter-in-law, and this tradition has continued for nearly 400 years.
Gyeryong Baegilju is a liquor that contains the essence of nature, made with the natural elements found around Gyeryongsan, including pine needles, azalea flowers, and chrysanthemums. To brew this liquor, one must gather and dry azalea flowers in spring, and chrysanthemums in fall. It is necessary to prepare enough of these ingredients for a year’s worth of brewing in advance.
The brewing process of Baegilju involves making nuruk (fermentation starter) from glutinous rice flour. Whole wheat and glutinous rice are mixed in equal proportions, coarsely ground, and then kneaded with water. The mixture is placed in a mold and left to ferment. The fermentation period in summer takes two months, and in winter, it takes three months. During this time, the nuruk must be flipped every two to three days to ensure proper fermentation.
The fermentation of the base liquor takes 30 days, and the main brewing process takes an additional 70 days until the liquor matures. The key ingredients that define the taste and aroma of Baegilju, such as chrysanthemums, azalea flowers, pine needles, and omija (five-flavor berries), are added during the brewing of the main liquor.
The final step in the production of Baegilju is filtering it using changhoji (traditional paper). While the liquor may initially appear clear and clean, sediment or residues often settle at the bottom. To prevent this, the liquor is filtered through changhoji placed in a sieve, though modern methods now employ machines to aid in the process.
Baegilju comes in two main types. One is a 16-degree "yakju" (traditional rice wine). This type of Gyeryong Baegilju is made by fermenting and aging glutinous rice, nuruk (fermentation starter), native chrysanthemums, omija (five-flavor berries), safflower, azalea, and pine needles at a low temperature for an extended period. Emphasizing its nature as a traditional rice wine, this liquor has a nickname "Sinseonju," which means "the wine that immortals drink" or "the wine that makes you feel like an immortal when consumed."
The other type is a 40-degree soju version of Gyeryong Baegilju. This soju is made by distilling the yakju and adding honey. In the past, this soju was referred to as "Baegilsoju." Although it is quite strong, it is characterized by a smoothness, with subtle aromas of pine needles and chrysanthemums. Nowadays, a slightly lower-proof version of 30-degree soju is also available.
Baegilju began to be known to the public in 1989 when Ji Bok-nam, the wife of Lee Hwang, the 14th descendant of Lee Gwi, was designated as the holder of Intangible Cultural Heritage No. 7 in Chungcheongnam-do.
Before this, the liquor was simply known as "Baegilju," but upon its designation as Intangible Cultural Heritage, Shim Dae-pyeong, the governor of Chungcheongnam-do at the time, felt that such a valuable liquor should have a proper name. He named it Gyeryong Baegilju after the mountain where it originated.
In 1994, Ji Bok-nam was designated as "Traditional Food Master No. 4," but after her passing in 2008, her son, Lee Seong-woo, the 15th descendant, inherited the Gyeryong Baegilju and continues the tradition today.
Distilled liquors have no expiration date, so Lee Seong-woo, believing it could replace the whiskey market, has consistently worked to develop the high-end liquor market. His goal is to establish Gyeryong Baegilju as a representative premium liquor of Korea.
Currently, the 20-year-old Gyeryong Baegilju, brewed since his mother's time, is being sold, and a 25-year-old version is scheduled to be released this year.
As a traditional liquor passed down through generations from a prominent Joseon family, Gyeryong Baegilju has firmly established itself as a proud symbol of K-Liqueur.
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